How to connect wired internet through a wifi router? Common mistakes in configuring routers.

An article on how to properly configure a WiFi router and improve your home wireless network.

Life always brings us some surprises. Sometimes good, sometimes not so good... But we almost always have a chance to correct any misunderstanding! So I recently had a problem that anyone who has Wi-Fi at home can face - the Internet does not work ...

More precisely, of course, it works, but with failures. The whole day, it happens, everything is fine, and then once, and disappeared. Moreover, it disappears for different time intervals: from several minutes to several hours! I complained to the providers, but they, as usual, said that there were no problems or interruptions on their part. So, as always, we will try to solve all the issues ourselves, Google will help us :)

Looking ahead, I’ll say that my problem was, most likely, that two more WiFi routers worked on my channel in the house (we have an apartment building) (moreover, one of them was somewhere near the nearest neighbors!). If you are not interested in the intricacies of all the wireless network settings, then you can immediately proceed to reading the section on configuring channels. And we will start in order :)

General information about routers

First, let's define the terms a little :) Users often confuse devices for accessing the Internet, therefore, in order to avoid misunderstandings, let's find out what is the difference between them:


As I said, next we will look at the principles wifi settings on the example of a wireless router (not a modem!). As such, my TP-Link model TL-WR740N will be used, however, having understood the basic conditions for setting up wireless broadcasting, you can configure almost any router in the same way.

WiFi activation and protection

So, we will assume that we have already connected the cable from the modem or switch to our router and want to start distributing wireless Internet. In some models, there is a special button for this, which allows you to turn WiFi on and off with one click. However, not everyone has it, and if it does, it creates by default an open access point without connection protection. That is, everyone can connect to our Internet! Therefore, the first thing I recommend is to enable network password protection, and for this you need to get into the settings of our router.

For the initial setup, we need to connect to the router via a network cable (it is advisable to make all important settings in wired mode), open any browser and enter the IP address of your device as the address, and then press Enter. Typically, the default factory address for all routers and modems is either 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1. You can see the exact IP in the instructions, on the bottom sticker of the device or on its box.

The start page that opens usually contains general statistical information about the operation of the router and data on its settings. We are looking for a side menu, and in it an item that can be called "Wireless mode", "Wireless settings", "WiFi" or something like that (depending on the manufacturer of the device and its firmware version). We go to this section and see the primary settings of our wireless network:

We will return to some of the nuances of the local settings in the future, but for now we will set the main parameters. These include:

  1. WiFi activation switch (in the screenshot "Enable router wireless broadcasting"). This is the main "toggle switch", which usually looks like a check mark or a radio button and allows you to turn on or turn off our WiFi at the program level. May be named "Enable WiFi", "Enable Wireless Network", "Activate WiFi", etc.
  2. SSID Broadcast Switch ("Enable SSID Broadcast"). This toggle switch is responsible for the visibility of our wireless network by its given name (SSID). For WiFi detection devices, this option must be enabled. Name options: "Turn on network visibility", "Activate SSID Broadcasting", "Show SSID"...
  3. Field for entering SSID ("Network Name"). The main (after broadcasting activation) Wi-Fi settings option. By default, the network name is the same as the name of your router, however, you can change it to any word written in English letters. Renaming the network is desirable for end devices to quickly find their WiFi connection. Name options: "SSID", "Network Name", "Service Set Identifier", "Wireless Network Name".
  4. Broadcasting region ("Region"). Usually it is a drop-down list of countries and their regions, in which you need to select the one where you are located in this moment. This is necessary so that the router automatically receives a list of allowed frequencies for use and does not interfere with other radio equipment. Variations: "Country", "Region".

Usually, by setting the above parameters and saving them, we already get a fully working, but not yet secure wireless network. Let's get on with the defense now. To do this, go to the "Protection" tab. wireless mode" (options: "WiFi Security", "Wireless Security", "WiFi Protection") or find below the parameters "Security Mode" ("Wireless Security Mode", "Encryption mode"...):

Here we usually have a list of encryption modes for our wireless network. You may not encrypt the broadcast (neighbors will say "thank you", or maybe they will bring you cookies :)), however, this is fraught with some potential problems ... Firstly, most providers can fine you for unauthorized distribution of the Internet (this clause is usually included in the contract) for the amount of several monthly subscription fees. And, secondly, the neighboring schoolboy Vasya Pupkin can easily connect to your local network and "whistle" any Important and confidential data from you (for example, your selfie from the bathroom, where you folded your lips "duck" :)))). Therefore, it is worth encrypting!

For this purpose, I recommend using WPA2 - Personal encryption. It is the simplest, fastest and relatively reliable WiFi security protocol. In fact, all we need to do is select this mode and set a password to connect to our local network. The rest of the parameters should not be touched without special need - the router itself "knows" how to encrypt the password and how to protect it from too inquisitive :). The only advice - if possible, the password should contain random characters and be no shorter than 6 characters in order to ensure its resistance to cracking by brute force.

Click the "Save" button and reboot the router ("Reboot"). After rebooting our wireless network should be ready. We check it by trying to connect any device via WiFi. Connected? We rejoice :) If not, then read on ...

Features of network settings

If you use a regular ADSL connection via a telephone line, then in addition to the parameters described above for WiFi distribution You don't need anything else. However, it often happens that we do not connect to the Internet directly (via a modem), but through a local network. In this case, there may be additional problems that require our intervention.

There are two main options for distributing the Internet over local networks: by a statically assigned IP address or by a MAC address network card devices. Let's consider both. To do this, first go to the "Network" tab in the "WAN" section (options: "Network configuration", "Network connection settings", "Network Settings", "WAN port"...):

Here we usually have an option to select the type of Internet connection (in the screenshot - "WAN Connection Type"; options: "Internet Connection Type", "Connection", "Connection Type", "Protocol"). By default, the "Dynamic IP" type is usually set here, however, as we understand, it is not always appropriate. If the addresses of computers in your network are static, then you need to select the "Static IP address" ("Static IP") option. After that, fields will appear in which you need to enter the address given to you when connecting, the subnet mask and the main gateway (preferred DNS), which is, in fact, the address of the server distributing the Internet. All this information is in the contract that you made with the provider, or in its annexes.

The situation is somewhat more complicated in the case of the distribution of the Internet by MAC addresses. In this case, the connection is tied exactly to the PC that you had when concluding an agreement with the provider and will not work on other devices, since the address of their network card will be different!

Here best solution, of course, will tell the providers the new address of your router so that they change it in their server settings. However, experience shows that such applications are rather reluctant to respond and the change of address can take several days! Therefore, I suggest first of all to check if your router has the function of changing the MAC address, and if it is not there, then contact it.

Usually the "MAC Address Cloning" function is located in the same network settings or even separate section. If you did not find this feature in the network settings, try searching in other sections for all the items where the word "MAC" occurs. It can even be just a separate field in which we should enter the address of our old computer:

We can find out the address of the computer to be used using the ipconfig -all command, which should be entered on the Command line of your working PC (Start - Run line - CMD (and press Enter). We are looking for our wired network card and parameter " Physical address" will just be the address that you need to specify as the MAC address of the WAN port of your router.

My router has an automatic address cloning feature. To use it, it is enough to connect the computer to the router via a cable (it does not work via WiFi, as you can see). In this case, the address of your network card will appear in the "MAC address of the computer" field and you will only have to click the "Clone MAC address" button without having to go to the Command line and enter something manually.

We habitually save the settings and reboot the router. Now we have a 99% chance that everything will work. There is, of course, a possibility that you are using more exotic connection types, but in most cases, the manipulations described above are enough.

How and why to change WiFi channels

And now, in fact, this is what this article began to be written for :) The situation is as follows: you have a long-configured wireless network, which suddenly, for no apparent reason, starts to constantly disappear or slow down a lot (at the same time, the settings do not disappear and everything remains exactly as you set it up). Of course, the variant of problems on the server side is not excluded (and providers will not always tell you about it;)), but if you live in an apartment building, then another variant is not excluded - the signal of your router is simply blocked by the signal of someone else's more powerful router ! Most likely, it was one of my neighbors who recently bought a new router, because of which all the pandemonium began ...

This can happen when several (two or more) routers operate side by side at the same or adjacent frequencies. The common frequency for all WiFi devices is 2.4 GHz, but it is divided into several channels (from 11 in the US to 13 in Europe). Each of the channels contains a narrow band of sub-frequencies, which are broadcast over WiFi in your home local network. Usually, the router settings have automatic channel selection, but in practice it happens that automation sometimes chooses not the most best option. As a result, we get mutual interference of signals, which cause failures (and both for you and for your neighbors :)).

You can check the hypothesis with the operation of several routers on one channel using special programs. For example, you can use the free Winhotspot app. Actually, Winhotspot is intended for organizing the distribution of the Internet via WiFi from a computer or laptop. However, it has a module for monitoring your WiFi environment, which we will use:

Install the program, run it, go directly to the "WiFi Scan" tab and click the "Refresh" button in the lower right corner. After a couple of seconds, we will see a table with data on WiFi access points operating within reach. As you can see, on channel 6 (on which, it turns out, my router works), two more routers "sit". Moreover, the signal level of one of them is already 70-80%! Here it is, most likely, is the cause of all failures!

Now the matter is small - you just need to change the channel. To do this, we again go to the wireless settings of our router, on the first tab (where we indicated the SSID) we find the "Channel" (or "Channel") item and change it to any unoccupied one. Ideally, it is desirable that the nearest busy channel be one from the one you have chosen, but if there are no free channels at all, then choose the one on which the fewest devices “hang” and the signal level of each of them does not exceed 40%.

I was lucky, and in my house three suitable free channels: 8, 9 and 13. I chose a channel with an ominous number 13, which was two away from the nearest used (11) :).

After saving and rebooting the router, now run Winhotspot again and check if everything is fine:

We see that now no one bothers us, and let "Intertelecom" continue to "fight" for bandwidth with "sumska", and I will calmly use the Internet without failures :) I hope ... :)

Updating the firmware of the router

However, there are times when no one interferes with the router (in terms of frequency), but it periodically fails by itself. This often happens in budget devices. This happened to me when I first bought the router. It worked for a maximum of an hour, after which it simply stopped distributing the Internet ...

I took the router back to the store, but a friend who worked there said that the first thing to try was to reflash it. More precisely, update the firmware, since the stock is outdated for a long time!

Naturally, the "terrible" word "firmware" immediately discouraged me a little, but everything turned out to be very simple. First of all, we went to the official TP-Link website and found our router model in the download section. There turned out to be something like 6-7 different firmwares of different release times, but a friend explained to me that you only need to download strictly the one whose version completely matches the version of the device, which is indicated on the sticker on its bottom:

We have downloaded an archive with a BIN file inside. This file was the firmware. We extracted it from the archive to the desktop and this time proceeded to the settings of the router itself:

Before firmware we created backup the current parameters of our router using the corresponding subsection in the "System Tools" section (options: "Additional features", "Tools"). The backup file is also saved in BIN format on the desktop. And we proceeded to the firmware itself:

It turned out that everything is more than simple! We went to the "Firmware Update" subsection, simply selected the downloaded update file and clicked the "Update" button. The router rebooted, its firmware was updated and (oh miracle!) It still works properly :). Since then, I have been updating regularly (about once every six months) and have practically no problems!

conclusions

Each router, in addition to the basic settings described above, has a whole bunch of different additional options. These may include scheduling, parental control, control throughput and distribution of the Internet only to specific devices on the network (by MAC address or IP). It is desirable to clarify their presence and absence according to the official documentation (if any), on the official websites of manufacturers and on specialized forums.

However, all this is already additional and secondary. Guided by the above article, you can configure almost any router yourself! And this is already a good habit. Who knows, maybe you will become a real system administrator in the future;)

P.S. It is allowed to freely copy and quote this article, provided that an open active link to the source is indicated and the authorship of Ruslan Tertyshny is preserved.

Many of us are sure that setting up a router for home use is a very difficult task for regular user. Of course, if it is possible to call a specialist from your Internet provider, and possibly for free, then the idea of ​​setting up Wi-Fi can immediately be thrown on their shoulders. But in the event that the call of a specialist is paid, you can set it up yourself without much difficulty.

So, a router fell into our hands. It doesn't matter if it's brand new from the store or used. Where to start setting up and what exactly we really need for Wi-Fi to work.

What we will need to do:

  1. Reset to factory settings if we use a used router. If a new one is used, skip this step;
  2. Connect the router to a computer, laptop or netbook and, accordingly, to the Internet;
  3. Log in to the administrative panel of the router;
  4. Enter access data to the provider's network;
  5. Block access with an unauthorized password.

Ways to set up a wi-fi router

  1. Auto. Using a special wizard program, which is located on the software disk that came with the wireless router. All you have to do is insert the software disc into your computer's optical drive.
  2. Manual. Using the web interface of the router. The setting is done through a PC browser.

The first way is the easiest: router setup wizard will ask you to enter the necessary data (in the best case, it is enough to select your Internet provider from the list) and the program will configure the wireless connection itself. You should refer to the user's manual to find out when to turn on the power of the wireless router - before running the setup program or after, as this is important for the setup program to work correctly.

Of course, it may happen that your provider is not in the list offered by the program. In such situations, you have to manually configure the router through its web interface. I will dwell on this procedure in more detail and describe the 3 main steps for configuring the router:

  1. setting up communication between a computer connected to the LAN port of the router and the router itself to gain access to its web interface
  2. setting up an Internet connection (WAN parameter - port) using data from the provider
  3. setting up a wireless network, including setting security parameters (password, choosing an encryption method, etc.), as well as physical parameters such as signal strength and wireless channel selection

Of course, this is not all; you can optionally configure other parameters related to protection and additional features, but the latter depend on the model of the router.

Static and dynamic IP addresses

Knowing what type of IP address you received from your ISP is very important when setting up your router. If
your computer, which was previously on a wired connection, had a specific IP address (usually spelled out in the contract), then your IP address is static.

If nothing is mentioned about IP, and, say, there is only a login and password, then the router will receive
it automatically. So your IP address is dynamic.

How to reset your router

Resetting the router settings (returning the router settings to factory defaults) is necessary when there are problems during setup, you get confused or something went wrong. For such cases, there is a special button on the body of the wi-fi router - RESET. At what point to press it and how long to keep it pressed, the user manual says, or be guided by the change in the behavior of the indicators on the front of the router, which will tell you if the reset was successful.

I want to draw your attention to the fact that this is the only way to change forgotten password on the router.

This completes the theoretical preparation for tuning. Next, I will go into detail about each of the 3 steps.

Setting up communication with a router on a computer

  1. Connect LAN cables (ports 1-4) if any will be used.
  2. Connect the provider's cable to the "Internet" port of the router (another name is the "WAN" port).
  3. Then, the power supply of the router is connected, plug it into a power outlet.

That is, turning on the power supply is performed last.

Any retail kit, in addition to the router itself, includes two “devices”: a power supply, as well as a power cord (patch cord). During the initial (first) setup, we recommend using the supplied cord. That's right, you make sure the router is working.

Before connecting wifi router at home, the first time you connect it "next to the computer".

A. If The DHCP server is enabled by default on the router., which automatically distributes IP addresses to connected
devices, make sure that automatic network address acquisition is enabled on the computer as well. To do this, follow these steps.

2. In the LAN connection status window, click on "Properties".

3. After that, in the next window, select "Internet Protocol version 4 (TCP / IPv4)" and click on the "Properties" button.

4. In the "Properties: Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4)" window, on the "General" tab, the switches should
be in the "Obtain an IP address automatically" and "Obtain DNS servers automatically" position. If this is not the case, set them to the desired position and close all windows by clicking OK.

B. If router is assigned a static IP address by default, do the following.

1. Find the default IP address of the router in the user manual (often it is indicated on a sticker located on the bottom of the device). Repeat steps 1-3 above.

2. In the "Properties: Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4)" window, on the "General" tab, set the radio buttons to "Use the following IP address" and "Use the following DNS servers". If this is not the case, set them to the desired position and close all windows by clicking OK.

3. In the "IP address:" field, enter an IP address whose last number (after the dot) is greater than the corresponding number in the router's IP address. For example, if the default address for the router is 192.168.1.1, you can enter 192.168.1.2.

4. In the "Subnet mask:" field, enter the value 255.255.255.0, and in the "Default gateway:" and "Preferred DNS server:" fields - WiFi IP address router.

Close all windows by clicking the OK button. Now everything is ready to configure the router.

Setting up the router using the wizard

There is nothing tricky about this procedure. Insert the software CD that came with your Wi-Fi router. Run the installation wizard by accepting license agreement upon request.

Click next to request information wireless connection. Enter the SSID of the wireless network (the name of your network that will be displayed during the search) and password in the appropriate fields, or leave the suggested ones, they can be changed later.

Connection settings for internet wi-fi The router will detect automatically. If your connection type uses Login and password, then you can enter them later, in the web interface, and in any other case, you can use it if after auto tuning the internet didn't show up. Just do not forget to write down the Login and password for accessing the web interface of the router (in the event that the router generates them itself, in the installation wizard window).

At the very end of the router setup, you will automatically go to its web interface to manually configure the Internet connection.

Attention!

If you did everything according to the instructions of the installation wizard and did not receive error messages, but, unfortunately,
Internet connection is not received, there are 2 possible solutions to the problem:

  1. As I wrote above, you need to enter additional settings connections in the web interface.
  2. It is possible that the provider allows access to its network only to devices with a specific MAC address - individual number devices. It works as follows: the provider's equipment remembers the MAC address of the client device when it first connects to the network and then only allows access to it. This information may not be available in the connection setup information. To fix this problem, routers have a special function for cloning and manually entering the MAC address, which I will talk about a little later.

Setting up the router manually (using the example of an Asus router)

If you fail to set up a connection using the wizard or you need to configure any settings that are not provided in the router installation wizard, you can make the settings manually through the web interface.
Open any browser and type the IP address of the router in the address bar:

Enter the name and password in the window that appears in the appropriate fields (their default values ​​are indicated in the user manual of the router) to access the web interface. Keep in mind that after setting up a connection, it is recommended that you change your username and password for security reasons.

Some manufacturers use 192.168.1.2 or 192.168.0.1 to log into the panel

In the LAN section of the router interface, select the "DHCP server" tab and check the box "Enable DHCP server" - "Yes". Thus, you will enable the router to distribute IP to devices connecting to it automatically.

In the WAN section, in the "Internet Connection" tab, select the type of Internet connection.
Which type of Internet connection you should choose, look in the documents issued to you by your provider or use the article: "How to determine the type of Internet connection."

The most common options for connecting to the Internet

  1. With dynamic IP (Automatic IP or DHCP)
  2. With static IP address (Manual configuration field WAN IP address setting, mask, gateway…)

We will consider the 2nd option, with a static IP address. As soon as you select it, the fields for entering the parameters of the static connection - "Setting the WAN IP address" will become active, which must be filled in according to the data received from the Internet provider.

Click "No" and fill in all the fields in sequence.

It should be noted that in this case the IP address and other network settings are fixed, they must be entered exactly as specified by the provider.
If the option with a dynamic IP address is selected, or PPPoE or L2TP, then the setup is simplified and the router will automatically receive all connection parameters from the provider. Only the last two connection types require a name and password provided by the ISP (or, in rare cases, a "Service Name").

Complete the settings by clicking the Apply or Save button.

In some cases, the provider binds the user to the MAC address (physical address) of his computer so that no one else can connect instead of him. In this case, an attempt to access the Internet using a router will become impossible.

To avoid this, the MAC address external interface the router should be changed so that it matches the MAC address that the provider assigned you to (usually this is the address of the network interface of your computer).

This operation is called MAC address cloning, however, this function in the router's web interface does not always have the same name.
To clone the MAC address of your computer that was connected to the Internet by cable before installing the router, enter it in the MAC field of the "Special ISP Requirements" section in the WAN section, Internet connection tab.

Save the settings by clicking the "Apply" button.

How to find out the MAC address of a computer

To find out the MAC address of the computer and enter it when setting up an Internet connection on the router,
do the following:

1. Click on the computer icon in the task area (tray), click "Network and Control Center public access»

and in the window that opens, select "Local Area Connection".

2. Click the Details button to see the MAC address.

The MAC address will be located in the Physical Address field.

Configuring Wi-Fi Settings Manually

If you did everything correctly and specified the correct connection parameters, then after rebooting the router you will get access to the Internet from the computer on which you made the settings. Open a browser and type
the address of any website, such as MediaPure.Ru. The site page has opened, therefore, you can proceed
to setting up a wireless network (wi-fi).

In the menu of the web interface of the router, select the "Wireless" section, the "General" tab.

Please note that some routers support wireless network operation in two bands at once (5 GHz and 2.4 GHz). Set up your wireless network in the more popular 2.4GHz band.

Specify the wireless network operation mode. The best option - universal setting, providing compatibility with both new and old versions of the Wi-Fi standard. It is called "Mixed" or "Auto" (automatic mode).

Specify the network SSID (Network name that will be displayed during scanning) in the field of the same name. Select the security option in the "Authentication Method" field, I recommend WPA2-Personal, why, read in the Wi-Fi section. Enter a password (or key) in the WPA Preshared Key field. Given key and network name (SSID) will be required to set up access on your wireless devices, so it is recommended that you save them to a file or write them down somewhere in a safe place.

It is recommended to hide the SSID so that your home wireless network was not visible from the outside, but you can still connect to it, since you already know the SSID. To save the settings, click on the "Apply" or "Save" button. By the way, the wireless network in the 5 GHz band is configured in the same way.

For fans of video instructions

Attention! Be careful when updating router firmware. The need for it is due to the incorrect operation of the router and communication problems. Carefully read the update section of the user manual software router and strictly follow the recommendations. Updating the firmware of the router is a last resort, you should not resort to it unless absolutely necessary, since when initial setup there is no need for a wireless network.

When creating the article, materials were used https://mediapure.ru/

According to my observations, few of those who could independently connect wifi router, if there wired Internet knew how to do it RIGHT. That is, set up a wireless network with it and combine it into different devices. As a result, they subsequently face difficulties that could be solved at the design stage of the local network.

How to connect wifi router?

Before proceeding to a step-by-step description of connecting a Wi-Fi router, I want to focus your attention on one point.

To create a full-fledged local wireless network, you need to buy exactly such a device as a ROUTER, or it is also called a ROUTER.

The fact is that there are a lot of devices similar in appearance and functionality for various purposes. For example, out of ignorance, it is easy to confuse it with a wired router without WiFi, which also distributes the Internet signal to devices. But only with the help of cables - it does not have an antenna.

Another device similar to appearance- access point. She generally has slightly different tasks from ours. A characteristic difference between a router and an access point is that it has several sockets for network cables. While at the point he is usually alone.


The point of connecting a router is that it is now, and not your PC, that will connect to the Internet via a cable. To do this, all the necessary parameters required to connect to the provider, which were once applied in your desktop computer, will now be registered in the router settings. And all other devices will already receive the Internet via wifi from it and according to the rules that will be set in it.

For clarity, look at the diagram:


In order to connect a router at home and set up a Wi-Fi network, I used about a dozen models from completely different manufacturers. I can say with confidence that in terms of the actual configuration of the WiFi router and connection to the provider, the difference between them lies only in the details of the graphical design of the administrator panel. Therefore, having learned the principle once on one model, you can apply them to others. Today, as an example, I will illustrate with screenshots from two routers - TrendNet TEW-632BRP and ASUS WL-520GC.

How to connect router to internet via DHCP?

The first setting we will look at is DHCP setting server.
If earlier the computer was alone and it alone received an IP address from the provider, then we can hook up many computers and gadgets to the router. And this means that it is the router, instead of the computer, that will “communicate” with the provider’s equipment. And already within our home network between these devices, it will itself assign an internal IP address to each computer, laptop, phone, TV and everything else.

Procedure:

  1. After connecting to the power supply, first of all, you need to configure the router to communicate with the computer. To do this, insert the Internet cable into the WAN slot on the device. And the other cable, with two plugs, which most likely came with the device, is connected at one end to the computer's network card. Where there used to be an Internet cable. Others - in any of the slots LAN1, LAN2, LAN3 or LAN4 of the router.

    I also want to note that it is better to connect the router to the network through an uninterruptible power supply. I had a bad experience when good device from Netgear sank due to a power surge in the network. It just began to broadcast wifi not at 100, but at 2 meters. Of course, I had to buy a new one.

  2. Next we take installation disk supplied with the router. And we start installing drivers and software.
  3. After that, we need to configure the computer to work with the router. Now we have a network card configured to go directly to the Internet through a provider. So, perhaps, some data is registered in the control panel that it is important for us to save and use after that when working with the router. To do this, go to the TCP / IP v.4 protocol settings as shown in the diagram:

    For Windows XP: Start > Control Panel > Switch to Classic View > Network Connections.

    In Windows 7: "Start > Control Panel > Network and Internet > Network and Sharing Center > Manage network connections > Change adapter settings".

    In the screenshot, I go to the “Wireless Connection” settings, but you don’t have it yet, and since we connected the computer to the router with a cable, you need to select the “Local Area Connection” item:

    If you have something indicated here, then write down this data on a piece of paper. This is especially true for those who have lost their service agreement and do not know the data for connecting to the World Wide Web. With a certain type of connection, which will be discussed below, this may come in handy. After that, here, in the network connection settings on the computer, you need to set the IP, gateway and DNS to automatic. We will already enter these parameters in the wireless router itself.

  4. After that, go to the address "http://192.168.1.1". Typically, configurations with the router occur here, if they did not have to be done at the software installation stage. But you can look in the instructions for the device on which path to enter the router control panel. Since the default IPs on different models may differ. Also, another popular place for short instructions is a sticker on the bottom of the device. Look there too. If there are no instructions in the instructions, or it is lost, then go to the Control Panel, as I described above. Only after right-clicking on "Local Area Connection" in the window that appears, click the "Details" button. In the window that opens, look for IPv4 Default gateway - this is the IP address of the router.

  5. Now, finally, we go to the address indicated there through the browser (http://IP ADDRESS OF YOUR ROUTER). And we find the DHCP Server item in the menu (in Trendnet it is combined with WAN) and set the range of values ​​​​for possible IP addresses of devices within your local network. For me it was like this: Start IP - 192.168.10.101, End IP 192.168.10.200. And of course, opposite the DHCP Server item should be the Enabled parameter. Domain Name or Host Name is the name of the future home wifi network. I’ll make a reservation right away that the screenshots below are taken from my devices that are already working or have been working for several years. Their interface is in English, so it would not be easy for a domestic beginner to figure out what's what without help right away - I hope these pictures will help you. Most modern firmware and software are already in Russified form, so it will be even easier to figure it out.

    This is how it looked in Trendnet (highlighted in red):

    And like this in ASUS:

Setting up a connection between a computer and a router via LAN

Now we will set the parameters for our wifi network at home - IP and router mask. For Trendnet, this is the same item (see Figure 1, highlighted in green), for Asus, the WAN & LAN section is at the very bottom of the settings page. In the first case, I set the IP 192.168.10.1, in the second - 192.168.1.1. This is the address within the local network at which we can access the admin panel through the browser. And through which computers will access the Internet. Mask - default, 255.255.255.0

Connecting a WiFi router to the Internet through the WAN port

These were all flowers, now the most interesting thing is the setting external connection router to the internet.
There are several types depending on the settings of the provider. This happens in the WAN menu.



There are several more options for connecting to the provider's equipment, but I did not come across them. So I won't talk about them for now.

How to encrypt a WiFi connection

If you did everything right and saved all the settings, then all devices that support wifi should now see new network with the name you specified. However, the question is how to connect wifi at home, not closed yet. Home wifi network turned out to be open, that is, anyone can use your Internet access for free. In order to break everyone off and make the wifi network at home available only to its owner, you need to protect the wireless network.

There are several ways, I used two WPE (or Shared Key) AND WPA in my practice. The latter is more reliable, so I will consider it. We go into the security settings. In Trendnet, this is the "Security" menu item, in Asus - "Wireless > Interface".

We select WPE or WPA Personal (PSK, TKIP) in the menu, set a password for authorization - from 7 to 64 characters. And we save. I show how it was for me:



Well, now to enter the Internet through your router, you need to enter a password. The final touch remains - so that there are no problems connecting all kinds of devices to the router and with the operation of programs, we will manually set the DNS servers. The setting of this parameter is located in the same place where the parameters for connecting to the Internet were entered. We activate the function of manually assigning DNS servers and write the IP from Google there:

  • DNS Primary (or DNS Server 1): 8.8.8.8
  • DNS-Secondary (or DNS Server 2): 8.8.4.4

You can also specify one of the Yandex servers (for example, 77.88.8.8).

As you can see, connecting wifi through a router and making a wifi network at home is quite easy. Hope everything works out for you too!

Now the traditional video for dessert on connecting a router, which will tell you even more clearly about the typical settings for working with the network.

  • System administration
    • recovery mode

    Introduction

    I think I won’t be mistaken if most of us have an Internet connection like this: there is some fairly high-speed wired channel to the apartment (now gigabit is not uncommon), and in the apartment it is met by a router that distributes this Internet to clients, giving them "black" ip and performing address translation.

    Quite often, a strange situation is observed: with a high-speed wire, a very narrow wifi channel is heard from the router, which does not load even half of the wire. At the same time, although formally Wi-Fi, especially in its ac version, supports some huge speeds, when checking it turns out that either Wi-Fi connects at a lower speed, or connects, but does not give out speed in practice, or loses packets, or all together.

    At some point, I also encountered a similar problem, and decided to set up my Wi-Fi in a human way. Surprisingly, it took about 40 times longer than I expected. In addition, it somehow happened that all the Wi-Fi setup instructions that I found converged to one of two types: the first suggested putting the router higher and straightening the antenna, while reading the second I lacked an honest understanding of spatial multiplexing algorithms .

    Actually, this note is an attempt to fill a gap in the instructions. I will say right away that the task has not been fully resolved, despite decent progress, the connection stability could still be better, so I would be glad to hear the comments of my colleagues on the topic described.

    Chapter 1:

    So the problem statement

    The Wifi router offered by the provider has ceased to cope with its duties: there are long (30 seconds or more) periods when the ping to the access point does not pass, there are very long (about an hour) periods when the ping to the access point reaches 3500 ms, there are long periods when the connection speed with the access point does not exceed 200 kbps.

    Scanning the range using the inSSIDer windows utility produces the picture presented at the beginning of the article. There are 44 Wifi SSIDs in the 2.4 GHz band and one network in the 5.2 GHz band in the district.

    Solution tools

    Celeron 430 self-assembly computer, 2b Ram, SSD, fanless, two wireless network cards based on Ralink rt2800pci chip, Slackware Linux 14.2, Hostapd from Git as of September 2016.

    Assembling the router is beyond the scope of this post, although I note that the Celeron 430 performs well in fanless mode. I note that the current configuration is the latest, but not final. Perhaps there are still improvements to be made.

    Solution

    In fact, the solution would, in a good way, be to run hostapd with minimal configuration changes. However, experience so well confirmed the truth of the saying "it was smooth on paper, but forgot about the ravines" that it took the writing of this article to systematize knowledge about all the non-obvious details. Also, I initially would like to avoid low-level details for the sake of harmony of presentation, but it turned out that this is impossible.

    Chapter 2

    A bit of theory

    Frequencies

    Wi-Fi is a standard for wireless networks. From an OSI L2 point of view, the access point implements a switch type hub, but most often it is also combined with an OSI L3 switch of the "router" type, which leads to a fair amount of confusion.

    We will be most interested in the OSI L1 level, that is, in fact, the environment in which the packets go.

    Wi-Fi is a radio system. As you know, a radio system consists of a receiver and a transmitter. In Wi-Fi, the access point and the client device perform both roles in turn.

    The Wi-Fi transmitter operates on a certain frequency. These frequencies are numbered, and each number corresponds to a certain frequency. Important: despite the fact that for any integer there is a theoretical correspondence to this number of a certain frequency, Wi-Fi can only work in limited frequency bands (there are three of them, 2.4 GHz, 5.2 GHz, 5.7 GHz), and only on some of the numbers.

    Full list You can see the correspondences in Wikipedia, but it is important for us that when setting up an access point, you need to specify which channel the carrier frequency of our signal will be on.

    An obscure detail: not all Wi-Fi standards support all frequencies.

    There are two Wi-Fi standards: a and b. "a" is older and operates in the 5GHz band, "b" is newer and operates in the 2.4GHz band. At the same time, b is slower (11 mbit instead of 54 mbit, that is, 1.2 megabytes per second instead of 7 megabytes per second), and the 2.4 GHz band already accommodates fewer stations. Why this is so is a mystery. It is doubly a mystery why there are practically no standard access points in nature.


    (Image borrowed from Wikipedia.)

    (Actually, I'm being a little disingenuous, because a also supports the 3.7 GHz frequency band. However, I haven't seen a single device that knows anything about this band.)

    Wait, you ask, but there are also 802.11g, n, ac - standards, and they seem to just beat the unfortunate a and b in speed.

    But no, I will answer you. The g standard is a belated attempt to bring speed b to speed a, in the 2.4 GHz band. But why, you answer me, did you even remember about b? The answer is because even though the ranges of both b and g are called 2.4, they are actually slightly different, and the range of b is one channel longer.

    The standards n and ac have nothing to do with ranges at all - they regulate the speed, and nothing more. Standard point n can be either "in the base" a (and operate at 5 GHz), or "in the base" b and operate at 2.4 GHz. I don’t know about the ac standard point, because I haven’t seen it.

    That is, when you buy an access point n, you need to look very carefully at what ranges this n works in.

    It is important that at one moment in time one wifi chip can only work in one range. If your access point claims that it can work in two at the same time, as, for example, free routers from popular providers Virgin or British Telecom do, then it actually has two chips.

    Channel Width

    Actually, I have to apologize because I said earlier that one range is longer than another without explaining what "longer" is. Generally speaking, not only the carrier frequency is important for signal transmission, but also the width of the coded stream. Width - this is what frequencies above and below the carrier the existing signal can climb. Usually (and fortunately in Wi-Fi), the channels are symmetrical, centered on the carrier.

    So in Wi-Fi there can be channels with a width of 10, 20, 22, 40, 80 and 160 MHz. At the same time, I have never seen access points with a channel width of 10 MHz.

    So, one of the most amazing properties of Wi-Fi is that despite the fact that the channels are numbered, they intersect. And not only with neighbors, but even with channels through 3 from yourself. In other words, in the 2.4 GHz band, only access points operating on channels 1, 6, and 11 do not intersect with 20 MHz streams. In other words, only three access points can work side by side so as not to interfere with each other.

    What is an access point with a channel width of 40 MHz? The answer is - and this is an access point that occupies two channels (non-overlapping).

    Question: and how many channels with a width of 80 and 160 MHz fit in the 2.4 GHz band?

    Answer: No one.

    The question is, what affects the width of the channel? I do not know the exact answer to this question, I could not check it.

    I know that if the network intersects with other networks, the connection stability will be worse. Channel width of 40 MHz gives more crossovers and worse connection. According to the standard, if there are other working access points around the point, the 40 MHz mode should not be enabled.

    Is it true that twice the channel width gives twice the bandwidth?
    It seems to be, but it is impossible to verify.

    Question: If my access point has three antennas, is it true that it can create three spatial streams and triple the connection speed?

    Answer: unknown. It may turn out that out of the three antennas, two can only send, but not receive packets. And the signal speed will be asymmetrical.

    Question: So how many megabits does one antenna give?

    Answer: You can see here en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11n-2009#Data_rates
    The list is strange and non-linear.

    Obviously the most important parameter- this is the MCS-index, which determines the speed.

    Question: Where do these strange speeds come from?

    Answer: There is such a thing as HT Capabilities. These are optional chips that can slightly correct the signal. Chips are very useful: SHORT-GI adds a little speed, about 20 Mbps, LDPC, RX STBC, TX STBC add stability (that is, they should reduce ping and packet loss). However, your hardware may simply not support them and still be quite “honest” 802.11n.

    Signal strength

    The easiest way to deal with poor communications is to fry more power into the transmitter. Wi-Fi has a transmission power of up to 30 dBm.

    Chapter 3

    The solution of the problem

    From all of the above vinaigrette, it would seem that the following conclusion can be drawn: Wi-Fi can implement two “modes” of functioning. “Improving speed” and “Improving quality”.

    The first, it would seem, should say: take the most unoccupied channel, channel width 40 MHz, more antennas (preferably 4), and add more Capabilities.

    Second - remove everything except the basic n-mode, turn on more power, and turn on those Capabilities that add stability.

    Recalling once again the proverb about ravines, we will describe what kind of uneven terrain awaits us when trying to implement plans 1 and 2.

    Ravine zero

    Although Ralink rt2x00 family chipsets are the most popular chipsets supporting the n standard and are found both in high-end (Cisco) and low-end (TRENDNET) cards, and moreover, they look exactly the same in lspci, they can have radically different functionality, in particular, support only the 2.4 band, only the 5GHz band, or support incomprehensibly limited parts of both bands. What is the difference is a mystery. It's also a mystery why a card with three antennas only supports Rx STBC in two streams. And why don't they both support LDPC.

    First ravine

    There are only three non-overlapping channels in the 2.4 band. We have already spoken on this topic and I will not repeat myself.

    Second ravine

    Not all channels allow you to increase the channel width to 40 MHz, moreover, what channel width the card agrees to depends on the card chipset, card manufacturer, processor load and weather on Mars.

    The third and largest ravine

    Regulatory domain

    If you were missing the fact that the Wi-Fi standards themselves are a noble vinaigrette for happiness, then rejoice that every country in the world strives for all sorts of different Wi-Fi ways infringe and restrict. In the UK, things are still not so bad, unlike, say, the USA, where the Wi-Fi spectrum is regulated to the point of impossibility.

    So, the regulatory domain may require restrictions on the transmitter power, on the ability to launch an access point on the channel, on acceptable modulation technologies on the channel, and also require some “spectrum pacification” technologies, such as DFS(dynamic frequency selection), radar detection (which each domain has its own, say, in the Americas almost everywhere offered by the FCC, in Europe it’s different, ETSI), or auto-bw (I don’t know what it is). At the same time, with many of them, the access point does not start.

    Many regulatory domains simply ban certain frequencies altogether.

    You can set the regulatory domain with the command:

    Iw reg set NAME
    The regulatory domain can be omitted, but then the system will be guided by the union of all restrictions, that is, the worst possible option.

    Fortunately, firstly, data on regulatory domains are available in open access on the kernel site:

    And you can search for them. In principle, it is probably possible to patch the kernel so that it ignores the regulatory domain, but this would require rebuilding the kernel, or at least the crda regulatory daemon.

    Fortunately, the iw phy info command displays all the capabilities of our device, taking into account (!) the regulatory domain.

    So, how do we fix the state of our Wi-Fi?

    First, let's find a country in which Channel 13 is not banned. A path of at least half the frequency will be empty. Well, there are quite a few such countries, although some, without prohibiting it in principle, however, prohibit either the high speed mode n on it, or the creation of an access point in general.

    But one channel 13 is not enough for us - because we want a larger signal-to-noise ratio, which means we want to launch a point with a signal strength of 30. We are looking for-looking in CRDA, (2402 - 2482 @ 40), (30) 13 channel, width 40 MHz, signal strength 30. There is such a country, New Zealand.

    But what is it, at 5 GHz, DFS is required. In general, this is theoretically a supported configuration, but for some reason it does not work.

    An optional task that can be completed by people with advanced social skills:

    Gather signatures / movement in support of accelerated relicensing of Wi-Fi bands in the ITU (well, or at least in your country) in general towards expansion. This is quite real, some deputies (and candidates for deputies), thirsting for political points, will be happy to help you.

    This is ravine number 4

    The access point may not start with DFS, without explanation. So, which regulatory domain should we choose?

    There is one! The freest country in the world, Venezuela. Its regulatory domain is VE.

    A full 13 channels of the 2.4 band, with a power of 30 dBm, and a relatively relaxed 5 GHz band.

    Asterisk challenge. If you have a complete disaster in your apartment, even worse than mine, there is a separate, bonus level for you.

    Regulatory domain "JP", Japan, allows you to do a unique thing: run an access point on the mythical channel 14. True, only in mode b. (Remember, I said that there are still small differences between b and g?) So if everything is really bad for you, then channel 14 can be a salvation. But then again, it is physically supported by a few client devices and access points. Yes and maximum speed at 11 Mbit is somewhat discouraging.

    Copy /etc/hostapd/hostapd.conf into two files, hostapd.conf.trendnet24 and hostapd.conf.cisco57

    We trivially edit /etc/rc.d/rc.hostapd to run two copies of hostapd.

    In the first one, we indicate channel 13. However, we indicate the signal width as 20 MHz (capability 40-INTOLERANT), because, firstly, this way we will be theoretically more stable, and secondly, “law-abiding” access points simply will not start at 40 MHz from -because of the clogged range. Set capability TX-STBC, RX-STBC12. We cry that capabilities LDPC, RX-STBC123 are not supported, and SHORT-GI-40 and SHORT-GI-20, although they are supported and slightly improve speed, but also slightly reduce stability, which means we remove them.

    True, for amateurs, you can patch hostapd so that the force_ht40 option appears, but in my case it makes no sense.

    If you are in a strange situation when access points turn on and off, then for special gourmets you can rebuild hostapd with the ACS_SURVEY option, and then the point itself will first scan the range and select the least “noisy” channel. Moreover, in theory, it should even be able to move at will from one channel to another. However, this option did not help me, alas :-(.

    So, our two points in one case are ready, we start the service:

    /etc/rc.d/rc.hostapd start
    The points are starting successfully, but ...

    But the one that works on the 5.7 range is not visible from the tablet. What the hell is this?

    Ravine number 5

    The damned regulatory domain works not only on the access point, but also on the receiving device.

    In particular, my Microsoft Surface Pro 3, although made for the European market, basically does not support the 5.7 band. I had to switch to 5.2, but then at least the 40 MHz mode started up.

    Ravine number 6

    Everything started up. The points started, 2.4 shows a speed of 130 Mbps (would be SHORT-GI, it would be 144.4). Why a card with three antennas only supports 2 spatial streams is a mystery.

    Ravine number 7

    It started up, and sometimes the ping jumps up to 200, and that's it.

    And the secret is not at all hidden in the access point. The point is that by Microsoft rules, Wi-Fi card drivers themselves must contain software for finding networks and connecting to them. Everything is like in the good old days, when a 56k modem had to have a dialer with it (which we all changed to Shiva, because the dialer that came with the standard delivery Internet Explorer 3.0 was too terrible) or the ADSL modem had to have a PPPoE client.

    But even those who do not have a standard utility (that is, everyone in the world!), Microsoft took care of it by making the so-called “Wi-Fi auto-configuration”. This auto-configuration cheerfully spits on the fact that we are already connected to the network, and scans the range every X seconds. Windows 10 doesn't even have a "refresh networks" button. Works fine as long as there are two or three networks around. And when there are 44 of them, the system freezes and gives out a few seconds of 400 ping.

    "Autoconfiguration" can be disabled with the command:

    Netsh wlan set autoconfig enabled=no interface="???????????? ????" pause
    Personally, I even made myself two batch files on the desktop “enable autoscan” and “disable autoscan”.

    Yes, please note that if you have Russian Windows, then most likely the network interface will have a name in Russian in the IBM CP866 encoding.

    Summery

    I've rolled out a rather long sheet of text, and I should have ended it with a brief summary of the most important things:

    1. The access point can only work in one range: 2.4 or 5.2 or 5.7. Choose carefully.
    2. The best regulatory domain is VE.
    3. The commands iw phy info, iw reg get will show you what you can do.
    4. Channel 13 is usually empty.
    5. ACS_SURVEY, 20MHz channel width, TX-STBC, RX-STBC123 will improve signal quality.
    6. 40 MHz, more antennas, SHORT-GI will increase the speed.
    7. hostapd -dddtK allows you to run hostapd in debug mode.
    8. For amateurs, you can rebuild the core and CRDA, increasing the signal strength and removing the restrictions of the regulatory domain.
    9. Auto-discovery of Wi-Fi in Windows is disabled with the command netsh wlan set autoconfig enabled=no interface="???????????? ????"
    10 . Microsoft Surface Pro 3 does not support the 5.7 GHz band.

    Afterword

    I found most of the materials used in writing this guide either in google or in mana for iw, hostapd, hostapd_cli.

    In fact, the problem IS NOT SOLVED. At times, the ping still jumps to 400 and stays at that level, even for the “empty” 5.2 GHz band. Therefore:

    I am looking for a Wi-Fi range spectrum analyzer in Moscow, equipped with an operator, with whom I could check what the problem is, and whether it is that there is a very important and secret military institution nearby that no one knows about.

    P.S

    Wi-Fi operates at frequencies from 2 GHz to 60 GHz (less common formats). This gives us a wavelength of 150mm to 5mm. (Why do we even measure radio in frequencies and not in wavelengths? It’s also more convenient!) I, in general, have an idea, buy wallpaper from a quarter-wavelength metal mesh (1 mm is enough) and make a Faraday cage to guarantee isolate yourself from neighboring Wi-Fi, and at the same time from all other radio equipment, such as DECT phones, microwaves and traffic radars (24 GHz). One problem is that it will block GSM / UMTS / LTE phones, but you can allocate a stationary charging point for them by the window.

    I will be glad to answer your questions in the comments.

    This article will help answer the following questions: how to set up hotspot, how to set up a router and bring clarity. According to the manufacturers of wi-fi equipment, setting up a wireless network (WLAN - Wireless Local Area Network) is a matter of minutes. The button is pressed and the device is connecting. In reality, wi-fi routers are confusing even for experienced PC users. Most are happy with the fact that there is a signal at all - reliability is usually forgotten. In this article, you will learn how to set up a Wi-Fi hotspot, how to set up a Wi-Fi router, and how to wireless connection reliable to protect the network from unwanted guests.

    I want to say right away that new detailed material has appeared on setting up the router:. I recommend using it first of all to set up a wi-fi router.

    Which Wi-Fi router or access point to choose

    Choosing a Wi-Fi router. The stumbling block for multimedia transmission is always the Wi-Fi standard. Fast transfer large files or watch HD video wirelessly only if it complies with the 802.11n standard, which supports speeds up to 300 Mbps. I also advise you to read about the new wireless network standard - in order to buy a device with a reserve for the future. If this is not necessary, then choose any router from a well-known manufacturer ( D-Link, TP-Link, Asus or Netgear) that comply with the 802.11n standard - this is more than enough for any high-speed Internet connection.

    WiFi adapters. Users who use modern laptops or PCs with an integrated wireless network adapter do not need additional equipment, and owners of older laptops need to take care of Wi-Fi modules on USB bus, or Wi-Fi Card-Bus adapters.

    How to locate a Wi-Fi hotspot or Wi-Fi router

    All three Wi-Fi networking standards typically operate at 2.4 GHz. As a result, several problems arise. One of them boils down to the fact that not only Wi-Fi equipment works in this frequency range. For example, microwave ovens, cordless phones, and wireless extenders also use this frequency, which increases the level of interference. Another problem is related to the environment of the signal passage: the human body, reinforced concrete structures degrade the quality of the signal if they are located along its route. In order for the signal to be available throughout the entire room, it is important to choose the right place. The connection works best if the router is mounted on the wall as high as possible. In addition, the router should not be located directly behind a computer or other device that has strong radiation or interferes with radio waves due to the metal case. The correct location of the antennas of the router is also critical. In most cases, you can get more coverage by pointing them vertically.

    Connecting and configuring a Wi-Fi router (access point) for a local (internal) network

    Connect the computer and the router with a network cable (usually use sockets for an external network, there are usually 3-5 of them, they are located nearby and signed. Make sure that your computer is connected to your wi-fi router (the connection icon in the taskbar tray lights up) .

    • IP address: 192.168.0.2
    • Subnet mask: 255.255.255.0
    • Default Gateway: 192.168.0.1
    • DNS: 192.168.0.1

    If you found other options in the manual, set them. Open a command prompt ( Start - Run- in the window that opens, write "cmd" for Windows XP or click Start and type "cmd" in the search bar). Further in the opened command line write: ping 192.168.0.1 . If packets come from 192.168.0.1, then you did everything right. If there is no answer and we see messages about exceeding the waiting limit, it is worth trying to change the IP 192.168.0.1 and 192.168.0.2 to 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.1.2 respectively, and then try to “ping” the address - 192.168.1.1 If you still fail, then refer to the manual to understand what IP address the router accepts on the internal interface.

    I also recommend that you check once again whether the network cable on the router is plugged into the socket, whether a crossover cable is used. IN guide to wi-fi connection router it should be written how to get into the web interface to manage the router, if you can’t find this section or the manual itself is missing, you should check the addresses http://192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1 , depending on which address we managed to ping. in your computer's browser. If you have already tried to connect it to the router, then you must first reset the settings with the button "Reset" on the back. It is also worth checking the same addresses but with a secure protocol https://, instead of http://

    On the page that opens, you will be asked to enter your login and password, if nothing is indicated in the instructions for connecting the wi-fi router, then you should try the admin / admin or admin / password pair - these are the most common pairs and they are found in almost all popular router models. After entering the administration mode, select the Russian language in the interface settings section so that everything becomes intuitive, if it is present.

    Most often, Wi-Fi routers allow packet forwarding on the intranet interface, so you can already turn on additional PCs and connect them through other internal network sockets and start using the internal network.

    How to set up a Wi-Fi router

    How to enter data to access the Internet connection, we will consider below, using the example of one of the Wi-Fi routers, but for now let's go to the settings section "Wireless Settings" ( wireless network setup) or to the section “Wi Fi”, “Wireless”, etc.

    Now name your home WiFi networks in "Name (SSID)". Under this name, the wireless network will be displayed in the list of available networks on the other device. Select your region (Europe - the American installation has a long range, which, however, is prohibited in our country). In the "Channel" column, set the value to "Auto" - then the Wi-Fi router will analyze the air and will use the channel with the least amount of interference. Confirm the settings by clicking "Apply".

    Wireless Security

    The network is installed, now it's up to the choice of protection. Without a strong password, anyone can access the Internet through your connection. There are three main encryption methods in protecting a wi-fi network: WEP, WPA and WPA2. All of them are vulnerable in one way or another, but with my help, your network will be quite reliably protected from hackers. Encryption using WEP is extremely insecure - we recommend that you do not use it. WPA (Wi-Fi Protected Access) encryption, which is based on the AES encryption method, is fairly secure and difficult to crack. To select keys, a hacker will need many years or a computer that is orders of magnitude faster than current PCs.

    More better protection offers WPA2. True, hackers were able to find a loophole here too, but the costs of hacking are too high. However, all these protection methods require a dedicated authorization server (RADIUS), which is not applicable in a home network or a small office network. They are encrypted using WPA and WPA2 with predefined keys. To use them, on the "Wireless Settings" tab, activate "WPA-PSK (TKIP)" or "WPA2-PSK (AES)". When prompted for "Security Encryption", set a password - it is not recommended to use less than 15 characters for it. Confirm the entry by clicking on "Apply".

    Optional Wi-Fi router setup

    Each device on the network has its own MAC (Media Access Control) network address. In the router, you should register the addresses of only devices you know - others should not have access to the router. To do this, click on the "Advanced" menu item on the "Wireless Settings" tab and select "Setup Access List". After that, you will get a list of connected devices. To know MAC address wifi module on a laptop or wifi network card on a PC is simple - at the command line, type “ ipconfig /all” Select the computers for which you want to open access, and click on "Add" (Add). Now check the box next to "Turn Access Control On", click no "Apply" - and the hacker-proof network is ready. Do not forget that all this is best done after you set up a wireless connection on client computers.

    Restart the Wi-Fi router through the web interface and try to set up a network on your device using the following settings:

    IP– from the range of free addresses
    Mask – 255.255.255.0
    getway – 192.168.(0-1).1

    Setting up the Internet on a Wi-Fi router or setting up an external network

    If we need to wire the Internet over the internal network, we need to connect the network cable with the “Internet” to the external interface on the wi-fi router (the external interface is usually located a little away from the others and is signed accordingly WAN)
    After that, in the router settings, you need to specify the settings for the external interface of your provider: they are usually in the contract, or call technical support. Also, do not forget about DNS - the router probably has a caching DNS server or as a last resort a DNS tunnel, set it up. It is also worth checking whether the exchange of packets between interfaces is allowed, if so, then the Internet most likely already exists in your internal network.

    By the way, I want to note that the last wifi models routers and some of the previous ones (Asus, for example) have the ability to work with the PPPoE protocol - which has recently become more and more common among providers, so at the end of the article you will find a step-by-step instructions for setting up a wi-fi router with a connection via the PPPoE protocol . If your Internet is exactly like this, then make sure that you have a router with PPPoE support. On I have described the main types of Internet connections so that you can determine yours.

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    P.S. Let me remind you once again about the “cherished button” that answers the question “ How to reset the password on the router, if I forgot the old one. Each router has a “Reset” button - after pressing it while the router is running, it reboots and all settings are set to the original ones.

    Setting up a wi-fi router. Troubleshooting a Wi-Fi network

    Why doesn't Wi-Fi want to transfer data? You are connecting to Wi-Fi, but the browser cannot display the site. Let's find ways to solve this WLAN problem:

    Weak signal Wi-Fi connection. Sometimes a WLAN transmits data one and a half, two times slower and the signal is always bad, regardless of the location of the antenna. Cause: Your network is being covered by another WLAN that operates on the same frequency. In order for several radio networks to exist side by side without overlapping each other, the 802.11b / g standard provides 13 channels at a frequency of 2.4 GHz. Many routers are set to channels eleven or six. WITH free application NetStumbler you can find and recognize neighboring WLANs and find out which channels they operate on. Download the app from the official website and start searching. After that, you will see the channels of the networks around you. Now, through the web configuration of the router, set your WLAN to one of the channels that is not used on this network and check if the signal has improved.

    How to increase the radius wifi activities networks. If the range of the Wi-Fi router is insufficient, WDS technology (Wireless Distribution System - distributed wireless system) is usually used. It allows Wi-Fi access points to establish a connection not only with clients, but also with each other. Each of them receives a signal from the other and transmits it further. However, this increase in range translates into the cost of another set of access point equipment. The next disadvantage: the access point must provide simultaneous connection to both the network and the client - this reduces the efficiency by half. Another, less expensive, but often quite effective method to cope with the problem - replace the complete antenna of the router with a higher gain or even a directional one.

    The Wi-Fi router or Wi-Fi hotspot is losing connection. The network is functioning normally, but the connection is constantly broken. The problem is most likely the poor quality of the power supply. Even a small voltage drop is enough for the router to lose connection. Solution: Get a small uninterruptible power supply and connect the router through it. If this happens infrequently, most users turn off / on the device, but this is not an option.

    breaks wifi connections connections. When the wi-fi router and computer adapter are made by different manufacturers, this may cause some problems. As a rule, updating the software helps here. Find a supplier on the website latest version and install it through the configuration menu. Especially often this problem solved by updating the firmware on D-Link access points and routers.

    Common mistakes and setting up a Wi-Fi router

    Wrong IP configuration. In order for two network communication components to share files, each needs its own IP address. This network data is distributed by the DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) server in the router (do not forget to check in the router's web interface that the DHCP server is enabled). Open Control Panel and select Internet Connection. Select "Settings" from the WLAN connection menu. Next, double-click on "Internet Protocol" (TCP/IP) and activate the "Obtain an IP address automatically" option. Confirm by double-clicking on "OK". If you have several devices that can be DHCP servers, there may be a conflict between them. This leads to real chaos. Use the DHCP Find app to track down which device is causing the problem. It reports the MAC addresses of the DHCP server. MAC addresses are usually written on the underside of devices. In this way, you can quickly identify the troublemaker and disable the DHCP server in it. If the connection is still not functioning, the proxy server settings in the browser may be to blame. Set up your browser: In Internet Explorer, click on "Tools | Internet Options" and go to "Connections". In the "LAN Settings" section, uncheck all items, including " Automatic detection parameters". Other browsers such as Firefox, Chrome, or Opera have similar names for these features.

    Programs for setting up and optimizing a Wi-Fi network (WLAN)

    DHCPfind — looking for wlan troublemakers

    PuTTY — configures WLAN routers

    EasyWi— firadar — displays all WLAN connections in the area

    Wireshark — finds insecure data

    networkshareBrowser — shows all free networks

    Wlandscape — creates a WLAN coverage map

    WiFi router Netgear WNR3500L. Easy setup

    On the example of the Chehov.NET provider

    1. We connect the cable from the provider to the router (in wan port- yellow).
    2. We take another cable (compressed on 2 sides twisted pair). We connect one end of the cable to the router (LAN port - orange), and the other to the computer.
    3. We connect the router to the outlet. We turn it on.
    4. Insert the disk from the kit into the drive (Russian interface). Set up step by step. Everything is very clear.
    5. Next, watch the video (below) and set up a PPPoE connection: go to the web interface - www.routerlogin.net with a pair of admin | password, select the type of connection - PPPoE, set the login and password from the contract, IP automatically, change the password for accessing the router. Apply the settings, reboot - you're done!

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    How to set up a NETGEAR JWNR2000 Wi-Fi router with a PPPoE connection

    Go to the Internet Explorer, Mozilla, Opera, Safari browser and type 192.168.0.1 in the address bar. In the window that appears, in the "Username" field, enter admin, in the "Password" field, enter password and click the "OK" button.
    After this procedure, the router menu will appear:

    Setting up a PPPoE connection
    Click the "OK" button in fig. higher. "Basic settings" will appear (in the menu on the left it is: Installation - Basic settings).
    To the question "Do I need to enter connection information when connecting to the Internet?" answer "Yes":

    In the "Internet Service Provider" select "Other" (which corresponds to the type of connection PPPoE):

    Connection mode - connection establishment mode. "Always on" for a permanent connection. “Connect on demand” - establishes a connection when necessary - that is, when there is traffic directed to the Internet, the device will establish a connection, and if there is no activity for more than the time specified in “Idle time before disconnecting (in minutes)”, it will disconnect. If "Manual connection" is selected, the connection is established and terminated manually

    "IP address on the Internet" leave "Obtain dynamically from an Internet service provider" , if the IP is not given to you by the provider (static) , like the rest of the parameters (everything should be in the contract):

    DNS server addresses can be specified manually, if there are any from the provider, or leave the receipt automatically:
    Master DNS: xxx.xxx.xx.x
    Secondary DNS: xxx.xxx.xx.x

    "MAC address of the router" is left by default:

    Setting up wi-fi and security with an encryption key

    Configuring the security of a wi-fi network using filtering by MAC address

    Configuring the Netgear WG602 Access Point

    Setting wi-fi hotspots access Netgear WG602 is quite simple . Before starting the connection, hold down the "Reset" button, which is located on the back of the access point for 20 seconds to reset all settings to default. Remember that if you use an Internet connection through a login-password pair, then you need an access point with support for the PPPoE protocol, the connection of which is described above, the Netgear WG602 access point cannot be used with this type of Internet connection.

    We connect the Netgear wg602 access point to the network card of the computer with a twisted pair cable. In connection settings network adapter(cards) of the computer, we prescribe IP 192.168.0.2, mask 255.255.255.0, deleting the previous settings if they took place there, but you can also use a second network card on motherboard to set up an access point.

    Open a browser to connect to the web interface of the access point, write in the address bar 192.168.0.227, a dialog box should appear where you need to enter login: admin password: password (setting data is written on the bottom cover of your access point)

    We go to the Wireless Settings menu, type an arbitrary network name - Wireless Network Name (SSID) and region (Country / Region), click "Apply".

    Now we need to go to IP settings and “drive in” the provider settings from the contract by unchecking DHCP. This checkbox will not need to be unchecked only for those whose provider assigns an IP automatically or you use a wired router (switch) with an IP assigned to it. Such routers are necessary to connect several devices in the apartment. Leave all other settings as default.

    We reboot the access point (go to the Reboot AP menu section), remove the cable from the computer's network card:

    1) If you have an Internet cable connected to the aforementioned switch with an assigned IP provider, then insert the end of the cable that you pulled out of the computer into the switch and connect to the newly made Wi-Fi network using any device that supports this technology wireless communication, entering only a password (for example, a smartphone). Skip this paragraph if you are not using such a router.

    2) If you have only a cable from the provider in your apartment (house, office), then also remove the end of the cable pulled out of the computer from the access point and connect the cable of the Internet provider to it. Check network health.



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