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It is considered ready for separation from the main plant when at least 4-5 leaves appear on the stalk.

Children grow close to the stem of the main plant or nearby, appearing directly from the root system.

The branch of the shoot is made in the period after the end of flowering. The ideal time for transplanting is the first week from the day the flowering is complete.

Watering the transplanted shoot is done with extreme caution so as not to create an excess of moisture, which will lead to root rot.

Flowering occurs in the second year of the existence of the seedling separately from the adult plant.

The xiphoid leaves of the beautiful clivia are poisonous, therefore, it is impossible to neglect the processing of hands after manipulations with the transplant, but it is best to protect the skin with rubber gloves or rubber-coated cotton gloves. The plant is not allowed to enter the body, so be careful if there are small children or animals in the house.

Important! Clivia poisons cause vomiting and diarrhea.

How to plant: a guide

Seed preparation

• When performing a cross-pollination method, large berries are formed on clivia. Each of them contains from one to six seeds.
• They should extract the seeds from the berry.
• Soak in clean filtered water for 24 hours. It is necessary that swelling of the seed material occurs.

Seeding method

1. Pour the resulting soil into a shallow container.
2. Produce sowing seeds.
3. Between each seed should be a distance of a couple of centimeters.
4. The seeds are not buried, they should be slightly sprinkled with earth, by 3-4 mm.
5. An impromptu greenhouse is made from a container with sowing, covering it with plastic wrap.
6. Every day the container is necessarily ventilated, leaving it open for ten minutes.
7. Watering is carried out depending on the drying of the soil, it should not be plentiful. Delicate soil moisture is needed. It is best to use a spray bottle for watering.

Planting a seedling

• They make a dive of the seedling immediately after the first leaf comes out.
• The shoot is planted and placed in a separate pot.
• Very careful handling of the roots is required, they are very vulnerable to decay in clivia and can get sick with the slightest damage.
• The pot is taken seven centimeters in diameter. You can use a plastic cup.
• Within six months, the seedling gives about six leaves.

Starting from this moment, for two years, do transshipment of young clivia twice. Each time increase the diameter of the pot by three centimeters.

The substrate is already taken of a different composition - one part of peat soil, sand and humus is added to two parts of the turf.

Reference. The third year of life of a clivia derived from a seed is a mandatory period of rest, the plant is given complete rest and is not disturbed by transshipment.

During the previous couple of years, a dormant period is not required, since it is necessary to give the clivia as much time as possible to gain the volume of the root system and increase the number of leaves.

- the plant is quite light-loving. When choosing a place, it is better to give preference to windows on the east side. But try to avoid the strong burning sun so as not to burn the leaves. The optimum temperature for clivia is about 20-25 degrees in the summer, and from October until the beginning of flowering, it is advisable to lower the temperature to 14 or even 12 degrees. Clivia will be fine, but you will have to dress warmer.

In the third year of life, expect the first flowering. If flowering has not occurred, then the transshipment is repeated once a year, for two years, and then they give rest again (find out why the clivia does not bloom).

Vegetative way

substrate

Take sand with an average size of granules and rinse. It is more convenient to do this right before the jigging process, since wet substrate is required.

Escape Requirements

1. Carefully cut off shoots suitable for propagation at the base.
2. To detach the shoot, use a sharp knife with a thin solid blade, a serrated blade will damage the stem and make rooting difficult.
3. Sprinkle powdered charcoal over cuts on the main plant. You don't need to do this to escape.
4. Dry the shoot for half an hour in a normal room climate, in the open air.

Temperature and subsequent watering

• Favorable for the rooting of clivia shoots, the temperature ranges from + 18ºС to + 20ºС.
• Watering should be moderate, the plant is vulnerable to decay. Ideally, to achieve a slight wetting of the sand.
• Cut shoots after half an hour of drying are shallowly introduced by the lower parts of the stems into the sandy substrate, the sand is lightly crushed around each stem of the seedling with the help of fingers for its stability.

After that, they wait until it takes root, supporting desired temperature and watering seedlings.

rooting

When small clivias are rooted, you need to plant them in the ground. For each take a separate pot about seven centimeters in diameter.

The soil

In equal proportions, parts of the greenhouse, soddy and leafy soil are mixed.

The soil is disinfected in the manner described above.

After the rest period, the plant is kept at normal room temperature. At this point, most likely, it should bloom for the first time in its life, but flowering may occur later, in the following years.

In the fourth year, the care is the same as before, but the dormant period can stretch for the whole winter until flowering stems appear. The fourth year of a seedling's life is in most cases accompanied by flowering.

Read more nuances about growing, including reproduction and subsequent care for clivia.

Which pot is best for the plant?

• The dishes must be taken in the form of a cylinder. From the point of view of convenience during transshipment, narrowed forms are often preferred, from which it is easier to remove the plant. However, for the health and strength of the seedling itself, just such a form is required, since the root system must develop downward, and on the sides rest against the walls of the pot. That is, it is necessary to allocate sufficient space for the development of roots.
• Usually clay pots are preferred, but in the case of clivia, the owner of a fragile and vulnerable to rotting root system, it is better to take a plastic container or pottery lacquered from the inside. It is easier to take out a plant from such a pot.
• By the way, in the case when a plastic pot is used, it can simply be carefully cut during transshipment, thus protecting the roots from damage as much as possible and reducing the risks of root rotting and drying of the leaves after transshipment.
• The pot should have drainage holes to drain excess water.

Benefits of both options

Each method has its own advantages, it all depends on what result you expect.

The seed method makes it possible to get many seedlings at once, but at the same time their growth time will be longer, and the flowering period will be later.

The vegetative method is much easier and faster to give results in the form of a strong flowering plant.

Related videos

Below you will see a useful video about.

Conclusion

If floriculture is your hobby, then it will be surprising to create a beautiful cleavage from a tiny seed along with natural forces. Besides based on seeds, you can get new, making their crossing.

To obtain a lush flower, patience and attentiveness are needed, but the more joyful will be the reward in the form of the beauty and brightness of the flowering of clivia.

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The most important difference between Clivia and other plants of this family for reproduction is that the underground part of the plant is not represented by bulbs, as in other Amaryllis, but by a fleshy rhizome with adventitious roots. This means that the methods of reproduction will be somewhat different. For Clivia, vegetative propagation methods are mainly used, that is, parts of the rhizome and processes, and the seed method. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

How to plant shoots and parts of the rhizome?

The most commonly used propagation is by shoots, the so-called babies, since it is less laborious and relatively fast way. The disadvantages of the method include the fact that young plants cannot be propagated in this way, that is, the presence of the shoots themselves is necessary. Drop off children must have at least 4 sheets.

Material selection

During the transplantation period, the shoots are separated from the mother plant with a part of the rhizome with a sharp knife. All sections must be treated with charcoal, since Clivia's roots are prone to decay, and coal has a drying effect. Young shoots should be handled with extreme care and any damage should be avoided, as the roots of the plant are very fragile.

Important: A flowering plant is not transplanted or propagated. Transplantation and reproduction are carried out after the flowering of Clivia, during the dormant period.

Requirements for dishes and soil

For young shoots use pots with a diameter of about 7 cm. It is possible to plant several children in one dish.

As a soil, you can choose a mixture of leaf earth and sand, a mixture of sand and peat, or clean wet sand. It is very important that the soil is non-moisture intensive, as the clivia reacts sharply to the increased humidity of the substrate in which it is grown.

Also, there should be a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot so that excess water does not lead to rotting of the roots and death of the plant. For drainage, you can use pieces of broken brick, pebbles, expanded clay.

transplant process at home

An adult mother plant is transplanted every 1-3 years, depending on the age of the plant.. The pot should be 3-5 cm larger than the previous one. Soil for Clivia requires nutritious, for example, a mixture of clay-turf and leaf soil, sometimes soil is used for orchids.

The plant is transplanted by simple transshipment, but if there is a need to separate the children, then the roots are very carefully straightened and washed from the old soil. When planting in a new pot, make sure that the root neck is above the ground to prevent rotting.

Read about how to transplant clivia at home.

Rooting young plants

The planted daughter shoots after planting are not watered for 3-4 days, then moderate watering is carefully resumed.. Young plants will bloom only after 2-3 years, but it is important not to create a dormant period for the plants at this time so that they continue to grow green mass and fill the pot space with roots (if your clivia does not bloom, you can read). Then the flowering will be more magnificent.

This can be achieved by systematic, but not too abundant watering and top dressing. The method is considered optimal, since it requires much less time and effort, and daughter plants will begin to delight in flowering much earlier.

Division of the underground part of the trunk

A little less often, reproduction by parts of the rhizome is used. receive planting material also during transplantation. It is important to pay attention that there is a kidney in the cut off piece of rhizome, from which the shoot will develop in the future. All sections, as in the previous case, should be treated with charcoal.

Pieces of rhizomes are carefully placed in a mixture of sand and peat and watering is limited for 2 days.. Then watering is gradually returned. A plant obtained in this way will begin to bloom at 3-4 years of age.

Seed breeding

The next method is more suitable for ideological people who are in love with floriculture. It is less efficient and more time consuming, but also more interesting. It becomes especially interesting if there are already several Clivia of different colors at home. In this case, you can try to get a hybrid of these two plants and feel like a real breeder.

Preparation

Of course, seeds can simply be bought at the store, but then they will require special preparation for planting. It involves soaking the seeds before planting in the ground.

But the seeds obtained from the mother plant do not require soaking, and getting them is much more entertaining. During flowering, Clivia is cross-pollinated, it is possible both pollination of different flowers of one plant, and pollination of two different Clivia. Readiness for pollination is determined by the flower itself.

When a small droplet appears on the stigma of the pistil, and the stamens begin to crumble, you can start pollinating. To do this, carefully run a wet cotton swab or toothpick over the stamen so that some of the pollen remains on the tool, and why transfer it to the top of the pestle.

If pollination was successful, then the flower will begin to wither, and a green ovary will form at its base.. It is she who later forms the fruit. On one plant there can be several fruits at the same time, which will not interfere with the development of each other in any way, but can spoil it for some time. appearance. Over time, the Clivia berry will turn red and become soft, which will indicate its maturity. But do not rush to pluck them before landing. Seeds are recommended to be planted immediately from the fruit, so that they do not have time to dry.

Attention: Despite the attractive appearance of Clivia berries, they should never be eaten.

Sowing

Seeds are planted in a container with a nutrient medium, usually a mixture of sand, peat and turf. It is strictly observed that there are 2 cm between the seeds, and the planting depth is not more than 1-1.5 cm. If the seeds are still dry, then they are kept for about a week in a warm place in a damp cloth or gauze before planting in the ground. After 4-6 weeks, the first shoots will appear, in six months the plant can grow up to six leaves. With the appearance of the first leaves, seedlings can be planted in separate containers. In the first year they are transplanted twice, then once a year, increasing the diameter of the pot by 2-3 cm.

The first three years of Clivia do not suit the dormant period, allowing you to grow roots and leaves.. Young plants from seeds will bloom only for 4-5 years of life. Clivia is a poisonous plant, it is necessary that children and animals do not have access to the plant in order to avoid poisoning. After all the manipulations carried out with the plant, you should thoroughly wash your hands and tools.

Choice of selection method

The most commonly used vegetative method. It does not require special conditions, a long wait and can be part of an annual transplant. Young seeded shoots are already quite developed and will begin to bloom much earlier. But sometimes adult large-sized specimens simply cannot be transplanted. Or the plant may simply not produce new shoots. Then you can resort to the second method.

The seed method is rarely used due to low efficiency., but allows you to propagate a plant that is difficult to transplant, and also opens up new horizons regarding selection on the windowsill. It is used mainly in the cold season.

No matter how interesting this method is, it can not always be used. It should be applied if the plant is more than 8 years old, it is healthy and receives enough nutrition. A large number of restrictions are justified by the fact that fruiting greatly depletes the plant.

Conclusion

Clivia is a completely unusual plant.. It is difficult to resist the temptation to get a whole field of splendor through a fairly simple reproduction. It does not matter at all which method was chosen for this. Here the result is much more important.

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Clivia is a houseplant from the Amaryllis family, which also includes Hippeastrum, Gemanthus, and Amaryllis, which are popular among flower growers. But unlike them, Clivia does not have a bulb. It is replaced by long and powerful leaves at the base, growing in the form of a pigtail and forming a stem.

Clivia growing in the wild forms very large stems, the indoor variety is rather miniature.

Description of Clivia

Clivia is a perennial herbaceous plant. Its homeland is the subtropics of South Africa.

Clivia leaves are long (about 0.5 meters), glossy, belt-like, dark green in color, collected in a leaf rosette. Small bell-shaped flowers are collected 10-20 pieces in a beautiful yellow or red or orange inflorescence. The inflorescence is located on top of a long peduncle. Moreover, one plant may have several flower stalks. Since the flowers do not all bloom at the same time, flowering can be quite long.

Clivia, grown indoors, begins to bloom in February-March. With proper care, it can bloom a second time.

The fruit is a berry in which single seeds ripen.

Varieties of Clivia grown indoors

As a house plant, two varieties of Clivia are grown - these are Clivia Cinnabar and Clivia Noble.

Clivia Cinnabar (Clívia miniata)

Clivia Cinnabar

The leaves of Cinnabar Clivia are long, growing up to 60 cm, belt-like, opposite. They are tightly pressed to each other, forming a kind of fan in shape. In spring or early summer, a peduncle 0.5 meters high grows from the base of the plant, on top of which there is a multi-flowered umbrella peduncle.

Clivia Nobilis (Clívia Nobilis)

Clivia Noble

Stemless plant with ribbon-like leaves up to 40 cm long. Leaf plates are leathery, dark green in color. Peduncle low. Above is an inflorescence of an orange or pink-red hue. Blooms all spring.

Reproduction of Clivia

At home, Clivia can be propagated by dividing the rhizome, offspring, and seeds, but this method of growing a plant will be longer.

Vegetative propagation method

When transplanting Clivia, the intertwined rhizome is divided into several parts, each of which is planted in a separate pot. You can also propagate by offspring, which are separated from the old plant at the end of flowering. It is important that there are at least 4 leaves on each process. Places of cuts, so that the process of decay does not begin, must be powdered with charcoal.

For rooting, the offspring are planted in slightly moist soil, the optimum air temperature should be + 16-18 ° C. Clivia will begin to bloom only in the 3rd year of its development.

Growing from seeds

Only freshly harvested seeds should be sown. If you leave them even for a short time, they will lose their germination. But if, nevertheless, there is a need for later sowing, then in this case the fruit-berry with seeds along with the pedicel is cut from the flower. In this case, the box will not dry out, and the seeds will not lose their germination.

Sowing can be carried out as germinated seeds (placed in a damp cotton napkin and wait until the seeds germinate) or directly into the ground. The optimum air temperature is +20°C. In order for the seeds to germinate faster, it is advisable to cover the container with glass or a transparent film. The first sprouts will appear in about 1.5 months. Seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place only after the appearance of the second leaflet. In order for the root system of a young plant to develop rapidly, the first two years should not be allowed to allow the plant to retire.

Seedlings grow very slowly, the plant will bloom only after 4 years.

Clivia transplant

Since Clivia does not tolerate transplanting well, this procedure is necessary only if necessary, for example, when the root system does not fit in a pot. To do this, a pot is selected a little more spacious than the previous one, and a bush of Clivia is carefully placed in it by transshipment.

Clivia care at home

Although many flower growers assure that Clivia does not need special care, nevertheless, in order for it to grow well, bloom profusely, and not be subjected to various diseases, attention should be paid to it.

soil mixture

The best option is a mixture consisting of turf and leafy soil, as well as sand (proportion 2:2:1). The bottom of the pot must be covered with a layer of pebbles or small bricks, which will serve as drainage.

location, lighting

Clivia does not tolerate direct sunlight, so the plant pot must be placed on the east or west side of the room. It can also be placed on the northern windowsill, but in this case, Clivia will grow slowly, and you can not wait for flowering. In summer, a flower pot can be taken out into the garden by placing it in partial shade.

Temperature regime

Clivia feels good at normal room temperature. During the growing season of the plant, the optimum air temperature should be approximately + 20-25 ° C, during dormancy - + 12-14 ° C. When a peduncle appears, the plant is recommended to be transferred to a room where the air temperature is + 18-20 ° C.

Watering Clivia

Watering should be moderate. Water must not be allowed to accumulate in the pan - this can lead to rotting of the root system. Clivia stop watering when she has a dormant period. When buds appear on the peduncle, watering is plentiful. Water at room temperature is used.

top dressing

Clivia should be fed during the period of active growth and during flowering. During the flowering period, fertilizers are applied twice a month. It is necessary to use such fertilizers in which nitrogen is contained in a small amount.

rest period

In October or November, Clivia needs to provide a rest period, which should last for 2-3 months. To do this, the plant is transferred to a cooler room (approximate air temperature + 10-12 ° C), stops watering.

Pests

Sometimes Clivia can be attacked by scale insects or mealybugs. You can get rid of them in folk ways, for example, wipe the plant with a sponge dipped in soapy water, or treat it with an insecticide solution.

Among tropical decorative flowers that immediately attract attention, Clivia deservedly holds the first position. There is the simplest explanation for this: its unpretentiousness, ease of care and very lush, bright flowering at the end of winter, which can bring its positive notes into the cold season, captivates.

Caring for a home clivia flower by season

During the summer, when the air temperature passes the mark of +20 ° C, the clivia is put outside, providing partial shade. As the substrate dries, it is moistened. twice a month.

Period from autumn to mid-winter is considered rest time. At this time it is best:

• put it on the window on the north side of the apartment;
• limit the flow of light;
• ensure optimal temperature within +12..+15°C;
• water 2 times a month;
• do without supplements.

Second half of winter and spring require the most reverent attitude, since at this time a peduncle appears. To do this, the plant is transferred to a room with windows to the east or west, protected from direct sunlight, and the air temperature is maintained at + 20 .. + 25 ° C. Periodically water the substrate to a slightly moist state, fertilize twice a month. Humidity is not a vital indicator for a plant; they do not pay special attention to it. Only occasionally wipe the leaves from dust particles.

Proper care of clivia will give you beautiful flowers

The unpretentiousness of the flower allows flower growers to relax a little, to master only the rules of watering and feeding. And also to take care of a little, observing the necessary requirements during the autumn-winter rest.

How to water the clivia

Clivia is extremely negative about high soil moisture. Only the drying of the top earthen layer will remind you to start watering. In the event of an overflow, when excess water enters the pan through the drainage hole, it is immediately drained. Neglecting this procedure, you can provoke root rot.

• The amount of watering is sharply reduced with the advent of a dormant period, this is autumn-early winter. At this time, it is enough to moisten the earth once a decade to make up for the lack of water in the soil.
• With the formation of a peduncle, regular watering of the clivia is resumed. Water only if you notice that the top layer in the pot has dried out a couple of centimeters.

If water for irrigation is taken from the water supply, then it is certainly defended so that the chlorine ions, which are sometimes present there, have time to evaporate.

It has been proven that the state of the flower does not depend on air humidity, so you should not put a humidifier next to it and spray the leaves once again. But if you wipe their surface with a damp cloth, then the beauty will sparkle with new colors. Especially for clivia, in the hot summer, bathing under a warm shower is arranged.

Seasonal top dressing

In order for the clivia to develop normally, to become outwardly even more attractive, it must be fed. In the summer, in the first year of the plant's life, as well as during flowering, they alternately apply organic matter and a complex of mineral fertilizers intended for indoor plants. They do this a couple of times a month.

Among the organic matter, which is based on biohumus, such products as "Giant", "Ideal", "Breadwinner" are in demand. For feeding, take 1 tablespoon of any fertilizer, diluted in 2 liters of water. As for mineral complexes, 2 grams of "Ammophos" ("Nitrofoska") or "Kemira" diluted in 1 liter of water will make up for the lack of nitrogen and phosphorus required for the plant. With the onset of autumn, top dressing is temporarily stopped for the duration of the plant's stay at rest.

Resume top dressing with the appearance of an arrow of the peduncle. Experienced flower growers know that nitrogen-containing top dressing helps to delay the appearance of the peduncle, while potash stimulates flowering.

Clivia care during flowering

Clivia is usually observed at the end of winter or with the arrival of spring. It lasts from 20 to 25 days. The arrow of the peduncle hatches at a time when the flower is in a cool room. As soon as the length of the arrow reaches 10 cm, the plant is taken out of dormancy, moved to a warm place with good lighting.

They try not to move it anywhere else, not to move it, not even to turn it around its axis.

• During the flowering period, increase the frequency of watering. stimulate it with regular fertilization.
• Untimely watering affects the condition of the peduncle (it will remain short and inexpressive) and flowering time may be reduced.

Why clivia does not bloom and what to do

The flowering of clivia obtained from seeds is expected only in the 4th year of the plant's life. Clivia, grown from a shoot, begins to bloom in the second year (sometimes in the third). Experts attribute the main reason for the delay in flowering to the lack of rest.

• In the autumn-winter period, the implementation of all recommendations regarding watering and temperature conditions will lead to the fact that in the second half of winter the plant will release an arrow of the long-awaited peduncle.
• Immediately after the appearance of the peduncle, the plant is given a warm shower, more intensive watering begins and mineral potassium-containing fertilizers are applied. To do this, use potassium salt, potassium chloride, sodium sulfate.

If in due time the clivia refuses to bloom, then they resort to the following measures: the plant is left in a room with a lower air temperature of the order of 15 -16 ° C and low lighting for 2-4 weeks.

Reasons why clivia does not bloom:

1. A very wide, spacious pot also becomes a common cause of delayed flowering. The only way out of this situation is to wait for the time when the roots of the plant completely fill its volume.
2. Improper care during the rest period (read above).
3. Clivia has grown a lot, you need to divide it and seat the children in separate pots.

Clivia after flowering What to do when it has faded?

The period after flowering is conditionally divided into two halves. The first is in the summer, when the clivia grows green mass, enjoys the natural warmth and light. The second half is a dormant period when the flower is taken out to a cool place. Most often, the glazed loggia of a city apartment plays this role. It will not be superfluous to remind you that at temperatures below +12 ° C, clivia dies.

The duration of the rest of the clivia directly depends on its age. A couple of months (from September to November) are enough for young plants to gain strength for flowering. Starting from the age of five, the plant is given a full autumn-winter rest from September to February. And only the appearance of a peduncle brings the age-related clivia out of a sleepy state.

Clivia bloom twice a year: myth or reality?

When the clivia blooms, it is taken out into the open air, to a shady, calm place.
Desire to get flowering for the second time in a year makes flower growers resort to the following trick:

• the plant is allowed to rest for 2-3 months, taken to a dimly lit place, watering is practically stopped (1-2 times a month).
• From these strict measures, its dark green leaves turn slightly yellow, but after about 1 month, the appearance of a peduncle is observed.

Remember: only mature, strong, healthy plants are attracted to such experiments.

Common mistakes in clivia care

Unpretentious clivia endures any conditions of existence without prejudice to itself. But some circumstances can affect its appearance: the tips of the leaves dry out on the plant, brown spots and yellowness appear on them. Knowing the cause of unpleasant external manifestations, you can take actions that will eliminate them. For example:

Clivia turns yellow, what to do?

If the clivia leaves turn yellow, this is due to:

• being in a draft.
• insufficient watering.
• natural aging and death of old leaves.
• lack of nutrients in the soil, top dressing is needed.
• the return of nutrients to the peduncle to the detriment of the leaves (feeding is needed).
• adverse effects of transplantation.
• wrong choice of place for the plant.
• too high water hardness.
• root rot damage. Only a transplant will help complete removal damaged areas of the root.

It is pointless to fight natural aging, as new leaves will grow to replace the old ones. The lack of fertilizers is replenished as follows: in spring and summer, the crop is fed twice a month. So that the redistribution of nutrients does not affect the state of the leaf blade, each time the peduncle is cut off after the flowers wither.

The ends of the clivia leaves withered and turned brown

So the plant feels an excess of moisture. Reducing watering will help to avoid waterlogging. It is made more moderate and do not forget to pour the accumulated water from the pan.

Leaf rot after transplanting

Among the measures to combat rot are the following:

• stop watering for a long time;
• waiting for the earth to dry;
• cut off the affected areas, monitor the condition of the plant, preventing the spread of foci of rot.

When the plant gets rid of the disease, watering is gradually resumed as usual.

Brown spots on clivia leaves due to sunburn

Pale clivia leaves

This indicates a lack of nutrients, so the timely application of fertilizers will correct the situation.

Features of landing and transplantation

Clivia is not at all worried about the unfavorable conditions of detention. The only thing I don't like is being disturbed. The plant experiences stress especially during transplantation. It is believed that until the roots appear outside the pot, this procedure should be refrained from. An adult culture is not touched for 2-3 years, and then transferred to a wider pot. Do it after flowering.

Only youngsters are subject to annual. When transplanting, they try not to harm the root system, which rots at the slightest wound. If the root is still accidentally damaged, then the wound is treated with crushed coal.
A very old clivia at the age of 10 years plus is no longer transplanted, annually renewing the top layer of soil to a depth of 3-5 cm.

• When choosing a pot, make sure that it is not spacious, but a little cramped for the roots. Otherwise, the clivia will not release the peduncle until its roots fill the pot volume.
• When transplanting, each subsequent pot should exceed the width of the previous one by 3 cm, no more.
• Drainage holes will help remove excess moisture and allow air to enter to ventilate the root system.

The bottom of the pot is filled with drainage to help manage soil moisture. Broken brick, small gravel, pebbles, collected on the banks of reservoirs or expanded clay bought in a flower shop are suitable for it. Loose slightly acidic soil is poured onto the drainage. It is obtained by mixing equal parts of turf, leafy soil, sand.

Young clivia needs loose soil. To satisfy her desire, the following proportion of soil components is used: leafy earth + turf - 5 parts, sand (or perlite) - 1 part. If the soil is purchased in a store, then for this purpose it is better to choose the soil for growing orchids. This mixture contributes to the excellent development of clivia.

Before planting, the soil is treated to disinfect it. Disinfection is done in any of the following ways:

• calcined in the oven for 10 minutes at a temperature of 200 ° C;
• use a microwave, keeping the mixture for 2-3 minutes at maximum power;
• spilled with boiling water;
• treated with a weak solution of manganese.

After processing, the soil must be mineralized by adding fertilizers (in the amount of 30 g), the basis of which is phosphorus, for example, superphosphate or phosphate rock. This measure improves the nutritional properties of the soil.

Clivia transplant at home on video:

1. The earth is well moistened before transplanting, left for 1-2 hours to facilitate extraction. Then they take out a bush along with a clod of earth. The roots of young plants are carefully washed under running water.
2. If there are putrefactive lesions, the root is partially removed, not forgetting to sprinkle the cut with charcoal (if there is no wood, it can also be activated). Careful handling of the roots will help to avoid accidental damage that can lead to the death of the plant.
3. Drainage from the bottom is raised to a height of 1/4 of the pot, then soil is poured 3 cm thick, a clivia is placed in the center. Fill the remaining voids with earth. At the same time, an immutable rule is observed: it is strictly forbidden to dig the root collar deep into the ground. This will cause the lower leaves to rot. The root neck should always be above the soil surface.

Reproduction of clivia is not difficult!

Clivia use seeds or side shoots, which are called children. Most often they resort to obtaining new plants with the help of side shoots. It's simple, besides, flowering occurs much earlier in time. However, for the most experienced, scrupulous flower growers, growing a pet from seeds is not difficult.

Reproduction of clivia by processes

This type of reproduction, of course, is simpler, more effective. After flowering of an adult plant, they begin to transplant it. At the same time, children are carefully separated from the mother bush. The tangled roots of the plants are separated with a knife. The place of the cut is immediately sprinkled with charcoal, dried for 30 minutes.

Clivia babies are planted in pre-prepared small containers. Young shoots determine a place on a bright, warm windowsill, as it feels the need for warmth, light a little more than adult plants. But she needs less water. Flowering is expected in 2-3 years.

Growing clivia from seeds

How to get seeds

Usually, clivia seeds are purchased at the store. The desire to have your own seed material from a pet pushes flower growers to take the last step: get them yourself. Flower lovers are not stopped by the fact that the full ripening of the fruit takes a lot of strength from the plant, depletes it. But the planting material is excellent, immediately ready for planting.

At the beginning, a flowering plant is artificially pollinated with a soft brush. Waiting for ripe fruits lasts up to 9 months. Full ripening will occur when the fruit (berry) changes from green to red, and its rigid structure becomes soft. Seeds are planted immediately, without delay. Clivia belongs to the group of plants in which seeds lose their germination capacity every day. For this reason, you should prepare in advance for collecting seeds, hurry up with their subsequent planting.

How to plant clivia seeds:

1. Fresh seeds are kept in water for 24 hours to swell.
2. Mix the soil components in equal proportions and place it in a container. The soil is prepared two-component, consisting only of perlite with peat, or three-component, representing a mixture of soddy soil, sand, peat.
3. The distance between the seeds is at least 2 cm, but 5-6 cm is better.
4. To create greenhouse conditions, the container is covered with plastic wrap or glass.
5. Air every day for 10-15 minutes and, if necessary, slightly moisturize.
6. Picking is carried out immediately after the appearance of the first true leaflet. To do this, take small pots, fill them with soil formed from humus, deciduous soil, clay soil, plant seedlings there.

Slow growing seedlings are often a concern as they seem to freeze for the first 2 years. Every year, a young clivia, along with a clod of earth, is moved to a wider pot. The plant obtained from the seed is suitable for flowering only for 4-6 years of life.

Video about growing clivia from seeds:

Diseases and pests of clivia

Clivia is not often attacked by pests, but if this happens, it becomes necessary to stop their spread. It is not easy to cope with the bred brethren, and in neglected situations, it is practically impossible. In extreme cases, you will have to say goodbye to the plant. The most common pest is the mealybug, scale insect.

The scale insect and the mealybug are close relatives to each other, they settle on leaves, buds and feed on juices, delaying the growth of the plant. If the scab is covered with a wax protective shield, then the worms are only covered with a wax coating. The adult shield aphid is motionless, while its larvae quickly move through any part of the plant. Worms (hairy lice) form numerous colonies, visible to the naked eye. Among the diseases, rot is often found.

Pest and disease control measures

The shield looks like a dark spot-growth on the leaves. To destroy it, the leaves are treated with a solution of laundry soap. To increase the effectiveness of the product, a drop of kerosene or denatured alcohol is added to the solution. An immovable adult scale insect is removed with a damp cotton swab. At the end of the treatment, the plant is sprayed with "Confidor" (insecticide).

The appearance of “white cotton wool” on the leaves indicates the presence of a mealybug

When absolutely all the leaves begin to turn yellow, slowly die off - this is a clear sign of damage to the root system by rot. To avoid the spread of the disease, the clivia is carefully dug up, the roots are examined, all damage is removed, not forgetting to sprinkle with charcoal, and transplanted into another soil.

A very common cause of pests and diseases is the poor bacteriological condition of the soil, so it is recommended to start each transplant with disinfection of the soil.

Clivia or kaffir lily belongs to the Amaryllis family. This perennial flower is found in the wild in South Africa, and today only three varieties of this plant are known.

Due to its decorative qualities, unpretentiousness and ease of care, clivia is very popular in gardening. This beauty attracts with its appearance both during flowering and during its absence. If you decide to grow clivia at home, caring for it will be a real pleasure.

Popular types of clivia in home floriculture

Clivia is a unique flower that combines the brightness of bell-shaped flowers and the juiciness of dark green leaves growing at an angle of 180 °, forming a kind of pyramid. Clivia grows leaves slowly (5-10 pieces per summer), but does not shed them for a long time.

Clivia blooms for about a month, dissolving the buds in turn, which makes it seem that the plant blooms for a long time.

The decorative form is a stunted plant, while wild flowers reach gigantic sizes. Not all forms of clivia are suitable for growing at home, only certain types will harmoniously fit into the interior of the room.

Did you know? Clivia patronizes people born under the sign of Sagittarius. It helps to maintain cheerfulness and protects from negativity.

The Latin name is Clivia Gardenii. It grows up to half a meter in height, has leathery, belt-like, long, dark green leaves pointed at the ends. It blooms in the second half of winter with red bells collected in an umbrella inflorescence. The flower stalk reaches a height of 50 cm.

The most common type of decorative clivia. The second name of this flower is Clivia Miniata, in Latin - Clivia Miniata. While the flower is at rest, it is impossible to distinguish it from the beautiful clivia - its leaves are also belt-shaped, dark green in color and 70 cm long.

The difference is noticeable when the cinnabar clivia blooms - its flowers are red-orange, the petals are yellowish at the base. This species blooms in February-May and forms up to 20 flowers on a peduncle. It was cinnabar clivia that became the basis for breeding new varieties of this beautiful plant.

The Latin name is Clívia Nobilis. It has the same belt-like leaves, only their length is slightly shorter - 40 cm. When flowering, it throws out a half-meter peduncle with long, funnel-shaped flowers of a light red hue, collected 30-60 pieces in an inflorescence. The beautiful clivia petals are green at the tips. Flowering time is the second half of winter.

Optimal conditions for growing kaffir lily indoors

In addition to luxurious flowering and unpretentiousness, its longevity can be attributed to the advantages of clivia. If you know everything about clivia and competently care for this southerner, then you can admire it for more than a decade.

Location and lighting

First of all, you need to remember that clivia loves bright diffused light and suffers from direct sunlight.

The western and eastern direction of the windows are best suited. If you place a flower on the south side, you should take care of its shading. It is also not recommended to place clivia on the north side - it will grow more slowly and may not bloom at all.

In summer, it is advisable to expose indoor clivia to fresh air: on the terrace or balcony, but do not forget about sun protection.

Important! During flowering and bud development, neither transplanting the clivia nor moving the pot with it is possible - the plant will begin to shed its leaves. If the bush has been rearranged, you need to place it towards the light with the same side as in the same place.

Temperature regime

If you are thinking about how to make clivia bloom at home, create the right temperature for it. During the growth period, it should be + 20-25 ° C, and from autumn to spring - + 12-14 ° C. When the temperature drops, the plant goes into a dormant period and lays buds for the next season.

As soon as the first peduncle appears, the temperature should be raised to + 18-20 ° C.

Important! The larger and older the plant, the longer its rest period should be.

Features of caring for clivia during the flowering period

If you decide to grow this flower in your home, remember that clivia needs special soil, consisting of leafy, soddy soil and sand, otherwise, home care consists in proper feeding and watering. It is desirable that there is good drainage, which can be used as ordinary sea pebbles.

Watering and humidity

Clivia is not particularly demanding on air humidity, however, low humidity in winter and lack of lighting leads to the fact that the plant quickly fades.

Spraying should be carried out more for hygiene purposes than to increase humidity. Dust on the leaves can be removed with a damp cloth.

Clivia needs moderate watering - with an excess of moisture, the roots begin to rot, and the trunk and leaves turn brown. For irrigation, it is necessary to use separated, not hard water. It is necessary to water after the surface layer of the soil dries out, and excess water from the pallet must be poured out.

When the plant has released a peduncle and until the flowers are fully blooming, the frequency of watering is increased. After the clivia blooms, watering is reduced. During dormancy, the flower practically does not need watering - once or twice a month is enough so that the leaves do not dry out.

In winter, you need to monitor the condition of the leaves - the color and vitality. If you notice changes, carefully inspect the plant to find out why the tips of the clivia leaves are turning yellow. If you do not notice pests, just moisten the soil.

Did you know? At home, clivia is used to treat snake bites.

When and how to feed

From the first year of life, from spring to August, it is desirable to fertilize clivia. To do this, use organic or complete mineral top dressing twice a month. It is advisable to alternate fertilizers. During the dormant period, it is not necessary to feed the clivia.

If you decide to use ready-made fertilizers, then you need to choose for bulbous and flowering plants. At the same time, florists recommend reducing the concentration indicated in the instructions.

Complex fertilizers are added to water for irrigation.

Features of care during the rest period

Experienced florists advise arranging a dormant period for home clivia - wintering. At the same time, there are certain rules for caring for clivia after flowering.

At the beginning of autumn, it is advisable to put the pot with the plant in a cool room, the temperature in which will be 7-12 ° C. With the onset of cold weather, he is returned to the room where he will spend the winter.

For young plants, two months of rest is enough. For adults, the dormant period should last longer - until March, when the flower arrow begins to grow.
It is practically not necessary to water and feed the clivia during the dormant period. A lily signals a lack of moisture by shedding its leaves.

Important! Top dressing during the dormant period will deplete all the forces of the clivia, and it may even die.

After proper wintering, the lily blooms longer and richer.

Subtleties of clivia transplant

Young clivia need an annual transplant, as they rapidly increase in size. Mature plants need to be repotted when the roots do not fit in the pot - usually once every 2-3 years. Transplantation is done after the clivia has faded.

Despite the fact that clivia is patient even under adverse conditions, transplantation is stressful for her. Therefore, you need to carefully follow the rules for transplanting this plant.

The soil for clivia should be slightly acidic, loose and not monotonous. Optimal proportion:

• turf - 2 parts;
• peat - 1 part;
• humus - 1 part.

For a young flower, it is advisable to add perlite or coarse sand - 1 part to 2 parts of sod or leafy soil.

The pot for clivia should be small - the roots should fit tightly in it. To ensure proper air exchange and drainage, the flowerpot must have drainage holes.

The size of the pot for each subsequent transplant should be 2-4 cm larger than the previous one.

Important! If the clivia is planted in a spacious pot, it will bloom sluggishly or not bloom at all.

To prevent stagnant water, drainage must be placed at the bottom of the pot, and the root collar must protrude to the surface during transplantation (to prevent leaf rotting).

Often, when transplanting, the roots of clivia are damaged, so the places of creases should be sprinkled with activated carbon powder or ash, and in this case it is impossible to water immediately after transplantation, as the root system will begin to rot.

Very large flowers are no longer transplanted, they are annually refreshed with the top layer.

Reproduction of clivia at home

Like many lilies, clivia propagates by seed and vegetative means.

Clivia from seeds

Not the most common method of propagating clivia at home, as it is not very effective. However, many gardeners successfully use it.

To obtain seeds, flowering clivia is cross-pollinated. In case of successful pollination, a green ovary will appear. After ripening, the berry acquires a reddish tint and becomes soft.

Kaffir lily from seed is grown from October to April. Seeds are planted in a container with a nutrient substrate (peat, sand, sod) at a distance of 2 cm from each other. Sprouts will appear only after six months.

After the seedlings grow up and begin to produce leaves, they are transplanted into small (7 cm in diameter) separate containers. Subsequent transplantation is carried out as the clivia grows. The first two years, pots for transplanting should be 3 cm larger than the previous ones. You can add some of the humus to the substrate.

Two years later, starting in autumn, the flower needs to provide a dormant period, since the clivia begins to bloom in the third or fourth year of life.

Vegetative method

The most optimal method of growing clivia is reproduction by children. They separate from the mother plant at the time when they have 4-5 leaves. Given the fragility of the roots, any damage should be avoided.

Important! In no case should you separate the sprouts during flowering.

For young sprouts, a container no larger than 7 cm in diameter is selected. When the young flower adapts and gets stronger, it can be transplanted into the ground for clivia. The plant will begin to bloom in 2-3 years.

Possible problems when growing clivia

As a result of improper care of clivia, problems can arise. In order for the flower to please with its beauty for longer, we will describe the main signs of erroneous care, the causes and ways to eliminate problems.

Most often, clivia suffers from excess moisture, as a result of which its root system rots and painful signs appear. With insufficient watering, the peduncle may be too short.

If the time has come for the kaffir lily to bloom, but it does not bloom, then the rest period was short for it. In this case, you need to provide the plant with a full rest period by placing it in a cool room.

Clivia ceases to bloom even at high temperatures or insufficient lighting. Struggling with this problem is simple - it creates the necessary for the season temperature regime and diffused light is provided.

Another reason for the lack of flowering can be an excess of nitrogen. In this case, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded, and potash or organic fertilizers are used instead.

Did you know? Clivia was named after the Duchess of Northumberland, Charlotte Clive.

Leaves dry

If the leaves of the clivia dry out, this may be a sign of waterlogging or stagnant water. In order to save the plant, you need to change the substrate and place the flower there, after cutting off the rotten roots and disinfecting the sections.

Leaves turn yellow

Clivia may react with yellowed leaves to a transplant. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to water the plant with water with the addition of a few drops of a root growth stimulator (for example, Kornevin).

Insufficient watering can also affect the color of the leaves. In this case, it is necessary to adhere to the irrigation regime and make sure that the earth ball does not dry out.

Another reason why clivia leaves may turn yellow is a lack of nutrition. Everything is simple here - the feeding regimen must be observed.

Control of diseases and pests

With proper care, clivia is practically not susceptible to diseases, but sometimes ailments still attack it.

The most common clivia disease is gray rot. Too spacious a pot can provoke its appearance. The rot appears as brown spots on the leaves. It can be cured by transplanting into a new pot with disinfected soil, after removing the affected roots and treating them with activated charcoal powder.

When a mealybug appears, clivia leaves are wiped with a cotton swab or cloth soaked in alcohol or a soap and tobacco solution.

Pests can also attack clivia, the most dangerous of which are: